Julianne's Fashion Sourcebook: Images of Fashion Photography

Photography has been used as a way of documenting fashion styles since the 19th century, and as "materials and techniques evolved" fashion photography became the primary method for recording fashion garments as well as for "capturing moods and styles of life". [1] The following photographs will show the evolution of fashion photography and fashion styles throughout the 20^th century.

This first image was taken by artist Edward Steichen in 1907 in Paris. The photo is entitled Steeplechase Day, Paris- The Grandstand. Steichen took this photo with a hand camera and later remarked about his photo, "[I] made my first attempt at serious documentary reportage. I went to the Longchamps Races and found an extravagantly dressed society audience, obviously more interested in displaying and viewing the latest fashions than in following the horse races".[2]

The next photograph shows bathing beach policeman, Bill Norton, measuring to make sure that a woman’s bathing suit is not more than 6 inches above her knee at Washington Beach in Washington, D.C., circa 1920’s.[3]

Fashion during the 1930’s was very much impacted by the Wall Street Crash of 1929 and the Great Depression. Movies became a great escape for Americans, and movie star “endorsements of styles and accessories became common, especially with evening wear. A popular formal look was the empire-waist gown, with ties at the back. The dress might boast butterfly or large, puffy sleeves. Hemlines fell at the ankle and trains added a further formal touch.”[4] The image below displays Joan Crawford in a gown created for her 1932 film Letty Lenton. The dress was copied, and 50,000 of these gowns were sold at NY Macy’s alone.[5]

When WWII ended in 1945, women around the world were ready for a change in dress, and so was fashion. Christian Dior’s “New Look” was heralded by both women and the fashion industry. “It was Dior's belief that women were fed-up with the uniforms and unadorned clothing of WWII. A new lady-like charm was being adopted by post war women.”[6] The photograph below adequately documents the “New Look” with soft, sloping shoulders, tiny waists created through “guepieres”, fuller hips created through “padding, or modern farthingales and bustles”, and longer skirts that stood full.[7]

In the 1950’s the strapless gown with sweetheart bodice was the most popular look for women’s eveningwear. The photograph below is a picture of screen siren and legend Marilyn Monroe wearing this favored style of dress. This photo was taken by famous fashion photographer, Milton Greene, known for his “uncanny ability to capture the mortal beneath the image and believing that beauty was in the soul, he shot insightful images of . . . Marilyn Monroe”.[8]

The 1960’s was time of change, and as far as fashion was concerned, “[f]or the first time ever in any fashion era, the young became the leaders of fashion.”[9] Thus, came British designer Mary Quant and the Chelsea Look. Quant raised skirt lengths to new heights with the “mini” skirt, and though she was not the first to develop the style, she is credited as the designer who made it popular. The photograph below depicts a young woman in the classic 1960’s “mini” and platform heels.

By 1970, women pretty much wore whatever they wanted, be it a mini skirt, maxi dress, midi skirt, hot pants or halter neck catsuits with a Motown flair.[10] The first photo shows popular 1970’s actress Pam Grier wearing a halter catsuit. The second photo is of Motown’s darlings, the Jackson Five, wearing popular seventies style bellbottoms while performing.

Eighties trends in the US were greatly influenced by the music and television of this decade. Both Madonna and Michael Jackson made gloves popular accessories again. The first photo is a picture of Madonna donning her infamous lacy, fingerless gloves, and the second photo shows the King of Pop in his famous sequined glove.

While the 1980’s was full of “conspicuous consumption” the 1990’s became the decade of “less is more”. Trouser pants, cargo pants, hip-hugging denim and ultra baggy pants were all the style and sports/leisure wear became the norm for everyday apparel.[11] The first photo shows the popular look of cargo pants and halter-tops for women. The second photo shows the extreme of this fashion showcasing hip-hop ultra baggy style.