Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Historically Draped and Tailored Garments

Historically, there are only two types of garments: draped and tailored.  Draped garments are the earliest type of garments and were common in the Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Greek and Roman civilizations.[1] 

The first image is a depiction of Egyption Royal clothing.  The vast majority of Egyptian clothing was made out of linen. However, the Royal Egyptians also used very fine muslin.  Both men and women wore tunic and robe draped garments. Men also wore loincloths called shenti "a scarf wrapped around the kidneys and held by a belt".[2]   

 

As depicted in the above image, the Egyptians predominately wore white clothing. The color white represented purity and was also the most logical color choice of clothing considering their hot, humid climate. The Egyptians did not wear colored draped garments until the age of the New Kingdom (ca.1640-1550 B.C.) when "the method for fixing dyes was discovered". [3] 

Like the Egyptians, the Romans also wore draped clothing in the form of the tunic made from wool. Roman male citizens later wore togas and Roman women wore stolas (essentially a long toga that reached the ground).[4] The Romans also imported fine silks from the Orient and linen and cotton from Egypt and colored fabrics became common.  For the Romans, dress particularly signified social status within the society.  The image below depicts Roman clothing styles symbolizing rank within the society: citizen, matron, curule magistrate, emperor, general, workman, and slave.[5]

One of the most famous movies of all time depicting the most exalted Queen of Egypt and the most renowned Dictators of Rome is the 1963 film, Cleopatra. Cleopatra was a four-time Academy Award winner with an all star cast including Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra, Rex Harrison as Julius Caesar, and Richard Burton as Marc Antony. While the Hollywood costumes are a bit ostentatious, they do display a modern interpretation of both Egyptian and Roman dress.      




Today, garments are still considered either draped or tailored or a combination of the two. The below image displays modern draped garments.

Tailored garments were first developed by the Northern European cultures: the Celts, Britons, Gaels, and Normans. Tailored garments helped these ancient people survive the extremely cold weather conditions in which they lived.[6] The ancient Celts were very sophisticated weavers who made their garments out of wool, linen and leather and used brightly colored dyes.  These materials were woven into long-sleeved tunics, breeches and cloaks.[7] Although the Greeks and Romans considered the Celts, and other Northern Europeans, “Barbarians”, the Romans did outfit their legions with breeches or trousers, a style they acquired from Northern European cultures.[8]   

The above image displays a Celtic warrior in breeches and long-sleeved tunic. The image below is a modern day interpretation of ancient Celtic warrior dress.

From these Northern European cultures, highly-sophisticated forms of garment tailoring developed that were more complex than the Mediterranean forms.  As they excelled in their weaving quality, the Northern European tailoring emphasis was on "craftsmanship and finishes based on embroideries and lace-making".[9] The image below depicts 14th century garment tailoring from the Northern European School of Tailoring.

Custom tailoring has expanded and grown into an art form as one can see from Haute Couture or "high sewing" designs. Haute Couture design "refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted fashions, made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.[10]

The first image below displays couturier John Galliano with one of his haute couture designs. 

 Haute Couture Designs by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2008:

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27072/session_03.html

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Six Functions of Dress

There are 6 prominent functions of dress: Environmental Protection, Decoration, Gender Differentiation, Group Membership, Ceremonialism and Sexual Enhancement.

Environmental Protection

It has been argued that environmental protection is the primary function of dress.  Certainly clothing and the materials from which it is made have allowed humans to survive their external environments for centuries. Mans ability to develop different clothing suitable for various climates has also promoted world exploration and mobility from one climatic zone to another. If one were to look at a historical timeline, “humans have been naked or have covered themselves with furs for most of history” depending upon the climates in which they lived.[1]    

Above is an image of Martine Beswicke playing the Queen of a tribe of Amazonian women in the 1967 film PREHISTORIC WOMEN.  While this image is unrealistic in the fact that the tropical climate in which the Amazonians lived would render fur useless, it is but one example of man's interpretation and fascination with the idea of scantily clad prehistoric women as displayed in cinematography. The image below more accurately displays prehistoric man who would have either worn nothing, or would have used some sort of crude fur for environmental protection. 

Decoration

Human beings have used decoration in dress for centuries as a means of signifying the "self" vs the "other". Decoration can also display beauty ideals, religious and cultural beliefs, a person's status in a society or to signify important social events. Below is an image of an Ute Indian Chief. Traditional Native American decoration displays particular tribal membership, status within that tribe, and can also vary depending upon the tribal event.

Another significant form of historical decoration is the tattoo.  Called "irezumi" in the Japanese language, Japanese tattoos date back thousands of years and originally displayed spiritual and social status. Later, Japanese tattoos signified punishment and even criminal membership. Today, tattoos are used as an art form and are popular body decorations in many cultures.  


Gender Differentiation

A third function of dress is gender differentiation. Beginning in ancient times, dress began to signify important gender differences within a society. Depending upon the era and the particular culture, gender-specific clothing represents both the roles of men and women in a society and can tell us about gender specific societal norms and expectations.

The first image below shows two Saudi Arabian women wearing the traditional Muslim dress or hijab. “All Saudi Muslim women are required, by both law and tradition, to wear a full black cloak, called an abaya, a headcovering and the niqab (face-veil)”.[2] The second image is from a human right's organization criticizing Saudi Arabian treatment of women and likening it to gender apartheid.  Critics point to the enforcement of traditional Muslim dress as evidence of a lack of women's rights in Saudi Arabia. 



Group Membership

Perhaps the most important function of dress today is for the purposes of group membership. Clothing can often signify how we identify ourselves and with whom we affiliate. Clothing can express our ideological beliefs, our religious preferences and our cultural heritage.  

One of the best examples of group membership through dress is the uniform.  


Ceremonialism

Another function of dress is ceremonialism.  Clothing is often specially manufactured and worn for ceremonial occasions. Such garments both "create a mood" and "mark the importance of a certain social event".[3] The most obvious example of a ceremonial garment would be the wedding gown.  Below is a wedding photo of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes.  Katie wore a very expensive and exclusive Armani gown “with an ivory silk train adorned in Valenciennes lace and Swarovski beaded crystal embroidery. She accessorized her gown with an ivory tulle floor-length veil and ivory silk shoes”.[4]

The second image displays traditional Japanese wedding garments.  Though the Japanese bride may also wear white (just as in traditional Western cultures) this image displays a more colorful wedding kimono.


 
Sexual Enhancement

The final social function of dress is that of sexual enhancement.  Clothes are often specifically chosen to enhance a person's body and to make them look more sexually appealing.  Clothing for purposes of sexual enhancement has varied throughout history and by culture.     




Sunday, September 20, 2009

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2010

Romance is definitely in the air this spring, with breezy, flowing gowns,, short bubble dresses that move, and slim, sexy styles enhanced with sheer and metallic fabrics.  Luxurious silks, satins, chiffons and organzas are highlighted in colors ranging from sophisticated blushes and nudes to oceanic colors inspired by coastal images from Italy to Rio De Jinero. 

One of my favorite designers at this year's New York Fashion Week is Brazilian designer, Carlos Miele.  Miele's color palette is inspirational and fresh, with long, flowing designs fit for a Grecian goddess, and short sexy looks fit for any Hollywood starlet.  Below are some of my favorite looks by Carlos Miele for Spring 2010.

Carlos Miele 
 
    






Known from the hit show "Project Runway", Christian Siriano, is fashion's new Wunderkind. Tom Gunn, Project Runway's mentor, has called Siriano "this generation's Marc Jacobs". Siriano's gift of "ruffling", “elegant draping” and “delicate pleating” is once again apparent in his Spring 2010 line.  Siriano chose traditional yet sophisticated blush and khaki colors for some designs, while his more colorful garments were inspired by photography from the Italian coastline.[1]  

Christian Siriano






While no one denies that Dennis Basso is in a class of his own when it comes to designs that involve fur, Basso really shined at this year's New York Fashion Week with his short metallic cocktail dresses, ballerina inspired tutu dresses, and sophisticated silk tulip styles.     

Dennis Basso






[1] http://www.fabsugar.com/2022008 (September, 2008)

  


Saturday, September 19, 2009

Material Trends

This section will display garments of diverse eras focusing specifically on the textiles that give the garment its particular silhouette and design.  So significant is the textile chosen for a particular garment, that Christian Dior once proclaimed, “[f]abric not only expresses a designer’s dream, but also stimulates his own ideas. It can be the beginning of an inspiration. Many a dress of mine is born of the fabric alone.”[1]

The image above is a couture creation by John Galliano from the spring 2007 Christian Dior Collection.  This image displays how fabric itself inspires ingenious creativity in fashion design. [2]

It has been said that “[t]hroughout history, there have probably been only two real revolutions in fashion styles” [3] The first of these took place during the French Revolution when fashion styles abruptly changed. In the years leading up to the Reign of Terror, French fashion was dictated by “a culture of ostentation and one-upmanship that required the aristocracy to don weighty, brocades, lush velvets and lustrous satins- all in bright, vivid jewel tones and regal, large scale patterns that loudly broadcast their supreme wealth and privilege."[4]

This image of Marie Antoinette exemplifies the decadence of the French monarchy before the French Revolution: bright, ornate and elaborate fabrics, with full skirt and low-cut bodice. [5] 

Once the Reign of Terror began, fashion represented the political upheaval of the times.  “It was based on the assumption of equality in dress; all classes were mingling, willingly or unwillingly, through love or fear; and many wealthy persons rigidly adopted the simple attire.”[6] The decades from 1790 until 1825 are known as the era of Regency Dress. Women’s dresses were high-waisted with an empire line silhouette.  The bright ornate silk and satin fabrics popular before the French Revolution, were replaced with predominately white, muslin or batiste fabrics. [7] 

This image depicts typical Regency dress with square necklines, puffed sleeves and white muslin fabric. 

As fashion styles and materials evolve with the times, the simplistic dress brought about by the French Revolution soon led to “boredom” and yet another political change.  When Napoleon Bonaparte became Emperor in 1804, he was “keen to make France a leader of fashion and innovator of design and craft skills. . . . Napolean revived the Valenciennes lace industry so that fine fabrics like tulle and batiste could be made there.  To make women buy more material he forbade them to wear the same dress more than once to court.  Ladies dresses had extra fabric gathered into the back and trains were seen again for evening.[8]   

Up until the early 20th century, “women dressed as they had for centuries- restricted in movement, corseted and caged in their fashions”.[9]  The 20th century French couturier Paul Poiret is credited with the first designs that gave women freedom of movement.  Poiret “freed their breasts and their legs and literally changed the shape of fashion”.[10] The below image is a Paul Poiret design.

Like Poiret, another famous French fashion designer of the early 20th century was Coco Chanel. "Her simple little black dresses, squarish suits, and almost boyish designs were vastly divergent from the confining and tight-fitting corsets and long dresses with petticoats."[11] Early Chanel fabrics included jersey, silk, linen and cotton fabrics. Postwar Chanel fabrics included heavy wools and tweeds. These textiles were manufactured by textile designers such as Malhia, Burg-Linton, and Bucol. The fabrics give the suit its“boxy shape and luxurious appeal".[12] 

This is a 1964 Chanel suit.  The image comes from the Metropolitan Museum of Art Website.

The above image is an updated version of a classic Chanel look from the Chanel Haute Couture 2009 Spring Line. The Image was taken from womenmanagementblog.com.  This garment is made up of both natural fibers like classic Chanel pieces however synthetic or artificial fibers have been included which allow for the garment's more modern appeal.

The first synthetic fiber, “artificial silk”, became officially known as Rayon in 1924.[13]  Since that time, synthetic fabrics such as nylon, polyester, qiana, spandex and acetate have not only made fabric production more affordable, but have helped to make fabrics easier to care for.[14]  


The above images are from the Guess clothing line.  The dress and the shirt are machine washable, 95% rayon and 5% spandex.  The jeans are of course easy to care for and durable- mostly cotton but with a small amount of the artificial fiber "spandex" to give these jeans their "fit".    

Synthetic textiles have also contributed greatly to the ingenuity of 20th century fashion styles and trends. These synthetic fabrics have both inspired creative design and made these creations possible.  Below are two designs by John Paul Gaultier that display the inventiveness that synthetic fabrics and modern technology have brought to late 20th century fashion.    

 


[1] Elaine Stone, InFashion Fun! Fame! Fortune! (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007), p. 101.

[3]Elaine Stone, InFashion Fun! Fame! Fortune! (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007), p.24.

[4] Caroline Weber, Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution (New York, Henry Holt and Company, LLC, 2007), p.149

[5]https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVEy3FkbXXVJddzLI1NTjCEuoKB7nqfA1B2UGevgSUgl66cnsf2pDWfGFa8PrcDR31b2itwHTkEqLYwAVOoJXoKOAfB9NCGvye3nAD4fM1o8pqccOhATeaW0mtk2g7uzXPXrrlqguLV3A/s600/marie_antoinette_gravure.jpg

[6] http://www.oldandsold.com/articles08/costume-11.shtml (Originally published in 1926)

[7] http://www.fashion-era.com/regency_fashion.htm (Pauline Weston Thomas 2001-2009)

[8] http://www.fashion-era.com/regency_fashion.htm (Pauline Weston Thomas 2001-2009)

[9] 
Elaine Stone, InFashion Fun! Fame! Fortune! (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007), p. 14.

[10] 
Elaine Stone, InFashion Fun! Fame! Fortune! (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007), p. 14.



[13] 

Elaine Stone, InFashion Fun! Fame! Fortune! (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2007), p. 101.


[14] History of Twentieth Century Fashion Arts, Module 2, Material Trends: The Past, Present and Future of Fashion