Compilation of Historical Styles

"In the history of Western costume, the two main historical styles are classical and medieval. Classical refers to the styles corresponding with the ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. In the case of medieval, this refers to the styles of garments that originated in the Northern part of Europe during the Middle Ages (3rd to 13th centuries)."[1]

This first image is a picture of a Tanagra terracotta artifact from Amathus, Cyprus dating back to 300-250 BC. "Tanagra figures have small heads and lean bodies which are tightly draped. This figure of a woman [displays classic Greek dress as she] wears a chiton (tunic) with a himation (cloak) draped tightly across her body and right shoulder, covering her arm."[2]

The above image is a photograph by Thomas Eakins displaying classical Greek dress from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, ca. 1883. [3] Classical Greek and Roman style of dress included loose, flowing silhouettes and draped garments.

The second main historical style of Western dress is that of the medieval. The medieval style of dress commenced in the Middle Ages when the body became viewed as a "symbol of sin". Medieval style of dress is best evidenced by "long and fitted sleeves, high necklines, sober colors and stiff tailoring."[4] The first image shows typical medieval dress for women.  

Headdresses for women were an important part of medieval dress. The image below displays the popular wimple, or cloth that covered the head, neck and chin. Wimples were used primarily by married women in medieval times as it was considered improper for a married woman to show her hair.     

In post-Renaissance history, elements of classical and/or medieval style of dress can be seen in every fashion. "They are the simple, most visited and interpreted historical styles still relevant to designers as inspiration or as part of their thematic concepts."[5]

The above image is an example of classical revival in dress: a "Delphos" gown designed by artist Mariano Fortuny in 1907. "The finely pleated silk gown represented the classic, ideal form. . . The 'Delphos' gown was worn in the early twentieth century by some of the most avant-garde women in Europe and America. Fortuny was to repeat it, with only subtle variations, over the next forty years. . . [Fortuny's] work combined the ideals of the Aesthetic Movement and Modernism."[6]

Classical revival is currently the predominant fashion style this season and for Spring 2010. Below is a Karl Lagerfeld interpretation of the classic draped style. 

In “righteous eras”, such as the Victorian period with its emphasis on female purity, medieval revival dress (or some interpretation of it) comes back into fashion. Below is an image of a Victorian bride from the popular Harper’s Bazaar Magazine for women, ca 1875.      

The last two images are medieval revival inspired designs from Sebastian Pons' Fall 2004 RTW collection.

---

[1] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27073/session_03.html

[2] http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/gr/t/female_figure_in_greek_dress.aspx

[3] Thomas Eakins: [Two Pupils in Greek Dress] (43.87.17)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eaph/ho_43.87.17.htm (October 2006)

[4] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27073/session_07.html

[5] http://discussion.academyart.edu/sectionContent/54-23431/27073/session_07.html

 [6] http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=169168&img=150270#ixzz0TNk4O7Oq